DRYWALL And Love Have 4 Things In Common

The purpose of the following guide is to help the beginner do-it-yourselfer accomplish his/her first drywall repair, with minimal steps, tools and materials. Since the majority of the homes I repair come in the Cincinnati, Ohio, area, I will focus this discussion toward conventional drywall, finished with a smooth texture. If your home’s walls are constructed with plaster, I wouldn’t recommend attempting a repair yourself. With plaster, it is best to leave it to a professional professional.

Drywall repair is a straightforward process that virtually any homeowner can learn to do. Considering that homes today are designed with lumber inferior compared to that of generations past, movement of drywall from warping and shrinking in the home’s framing causes a number of drywall-related problems. Drywall San Diego Therefore, many homeowners will have to repair corners, cracks, screw pops, tape seams, and other drywall imperfections that accrue as time passes. Furthermore, damage from water intrusion, household accidents and normal wear and tear necessitate a periodic drywall repair to help keep the walls looking good, especially before they are painted.

Drywall Repair Tools and Materials

Go to your local do-it-yourself store and buy:

(1) 4″ Drywall Knife
(1) 12″ STAINLESS Mud Pan
(1-qt) All-Purpose Joint Compound
(1) Drywall Sanding Sponge
(1-qt) Latex-Based Drywall Primer
(1) 2″ Angle-Tipped Paint Brush
1. Depending on the amount of drywall repairs required, remove a proper level of joint compound (or “mud,” as it is commonly referred to) from the plastic tub using your 4″ drywall knife and scrape it off into your 12″ mud pan. The theory here is to keep the joint compound fresh in order that is doesn’t dry out-so only take as much mud out since you can use within 10 minutes. Otherwise, “chunks” of drywall mud develop, making your drywall repair much more difficult.

2. Briefly work the drywall mud back and forth in your pan several times-like you’ll knead bread dough. This removes air from the mud in reducing bubbles when you stick it on the wall.

3. Apply a thin coat of drywall mud to the crack or dent. Use the knife to scrape the mud flush with the encompassing surface of the drywall. It is best to apply 2 or 3 3 thin coats of mud (allowing each coat to dry in between applications) versus one thick coat. One of the most common mistakes I see with drywall repair is mud that’s applied too thick. This rarely results in a good surface and makes for additional time and mess through the sanding phase.

4. Allow the mud to dry. Dry time is highly influenced by type and brand of compound, thickness and level of mud application, and ambient temperature and humidity of the area. If you want to accelerate dry time, grab a hair dryer to dry the region (as seen in this picture of my craftsman Drew).

5. Once the drywall mud is totally dry, place a drop cloth below the area of drywall repair, as you are going to make a mess next! Use your sanding sponge to sand the region flush with the rest of the wall. Use lighter pressure as you finish in order to avoid gouging or scratching up your work. Some people like to have a buddy hold a shop vacuum up to the region to suck up all the drywall dust while they work. If you opt to do this be sure you have a drywall dust or HEPA filter installed-otherwise you’ll just find yourself blowing the dust throughout the room.

6. Have a damp paper towel or cloth to wipe down the drywall repair to remove any remaining dust. Also you can use a wet cloth or sponge to “wet sand” the area to get an extra smooth effect, if desired.

7. Making use of your small paintbrush, apply a light coat of primer to the drywall repair. This will seal the joint compound, hide the repaired area, and prepare it to simply accept paint.

8. When painting the drywall repair, I would recommend painting an entire portion of the wall, if possible. Although you may have gone over paint from once the wall was originally painted, or purchased new paint with same formula because the original, it is unlikely to match. Walls age and collect dirt as time passes, altering the look of them and color. Hence, if you can paint a whole portion of the wall, up to a corner or seam, the difference of “new” versus “old” paint is less visible.

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